Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for the ‘Yunnan’ Category

Day 11: 雨崩神瀑

原本应该是昨天抵达于崩后直接前往神瀑,但是从雨崩村到神瀑还得来回徒步14公里,我们一想到就脚软,所以决定放弃冰湖,只到神瀑。

 

有人把雨崩形容为“桃花源”,这里民风淳朴,而且每时每刻都能欣赏到怡人的风景……

 

We were supposed to visit the waterfall after arriving at Yubeng yesterday, but the thought of trekking another 14 km to and fro is enough to turn our legs into jelly. In the end, we decided to give up on the glacier (the guide said the route there is prettiest in May/ June when the flowers bloom), and head to the waterfall today.

 

 

 

 

这里每天都能看到“日照金山” / golden rays on the mountain peaks

 

 

 

 

早上9点开始徒步到神瀑。首先我们得从雨崩上村到下村,得下一个陡峭的山坡,经过分隔上下村的河流,然后继续往下村的方向前进。

 

We started our trek at 9 in the morning. To reach the waterfall, we first had to climb down a steep slope, past a river to get to the lower village, and then proceed from there.

 

 

 

 

辛勤工作的骡子 / donkeys hard at work early in the morning

 

 

 

 

分隔雨崩上下村的河流 / the river separating upper and lower Yubeng

 

 

 

 

雪山就那么近 / so near yet so far

 

 

 

 

据说把愿望“寄放”在马泥堆里很灵哦!/ stack a pile of rocks and pebbles, and whisper your wish into it

 

 

 

 

途中穿越的原始森林 / pretty autumn colours

 

 

 

 

神瀑是藏民朝圣之地 / The waterfall is a sacred place for the pilgrims

 

 

 

 

神瀑 / waterfall

 

 

 

 人们来到神瀑的目的就是要到神瀑底下绕圈,一般绕单数,1、3、5、7、9。据说只有平时积善的人,在神瀑下绕圈时,头发、身体才会被神瀑的水沾湿。还有,因为光线的折射,也能在水里看到彩虹。

 

我们的身体是湿了,但是脚下的石头太滑了,我们只顾着小心翼翼地走,忘了留意彩虹,结果什么都没看到……=S

 

The sacred waterfall is a place where the pilgrims come to offer their prayers and to walk around in small circles underneath. People usually make an odd numbered round and it is said that only kind souls would find themselves drenched after making their rounds. Another thing to look out for when walking underneath the waterfall is the rainbow caused by the refraction of light on water.

 

We did get wet, but we were too busy taking care not to slip to remember to look out for the rainbow.. heh..

 

Read Full Post »

今天起了个大早,赶看“日照金山”。究竟是什么玩意儿?清晨若天气晴朗,朝阳的光照耀着美丽雪山的13个山峰,就会形成金黄色的状态,也就是所谓的“日照金山”。其实,除了观看大自然美丽的景观,这背后还有个耐人寻味的故事。

 

据说“日照金山”不是随随便便让人看得,只有好人才看得到。传说中,有好多日本人想一睹这漂亮的景色,但是他们每上山,不是云层遮住山峰,就是雾大,他们就是无法亲身体会神山最美的一面。听说有个日本人不信邪,在飞来寺住了两个月,天天早起看雪山,就是看不到“日照金山”。直到他离开后的隔天,山峰才终于呈金黄色。

 

是真是假?谁也说不上来,但是听了这些故事后,还能看到“日照金山”,觉得幸好平时没做太多坏事。=P

 

Woke up when the sky is still dark. Today is the day we’ve all been waiting for, the day to catch the sunrise at Meili Snow Mountain. Some may ask what’s so special about the sunrise that everyone flocks here just to see it? Well, when the weather is clear, the rising sun’s rays will spill over the 13 peaks of Meili Snow Mountain, momentarily transforming the peaks into golden peaks. It’s something like the “magic hour” photographers persue.

 

But the sunrise is more than just that. Legend has it that only those who have done good in their lives would be able to catch the magical sunrise. It’s been told that there were many Japanese who came here hoping to catch a glimpse of the moment, but always returned disappointed. There was a Japanese who spent two months in Feilaisi, waking up every morning to a grey sky. However the next day after he left, the sunrise was said to be stunning.

 

There’re many stories and myths surrounding the sacred snow mountain. I believe they hold some sort of truth in it. Nonetheless, it feels good to be able to catch the sunrise moment. It’s comforting to know that we’re not that bad. =P

 

 

 

DSC_0031

来了 / peeking out

 

 

 

DSC_0067

主峰卡瓦格博峰 / main peak Kagebo

 

 

成功看到“日照金山”,此次旅途的考验即将展开。我们和同团参加4日游的团友分道扬镳,踏上前往雨崩的道路。

 

雨崩村就在美丽雪山山脚小。它是个藏族村落,由上下两村组成,全村不超过35户人家。“雨崩”在藏语和经书谐音,因为这个地方曾经是传说中的藏经书之地。

 

其实,梅里雪山在藏民心中称为“卡瓦格博”,而且是他们心目中的神山。这座山共有13峰,主峰达6740米,而且从来未曾被人攀越。这其中又有另一段故事……

 

1991年,中日联合登山队朝梅里雪山前进,目的在于登上她的最高峰。他们一行人来到雨崩村,由于村民当时与外界相当隔离,看到这群穿着怪异的人,对他们感到非常好奇,还热情招待他们。然而,当村民们洞悉这帮人的来历后,非常震惊、彷徨,因为在藏民心目中,卡瓦格博是他们的神山,而他们朝拜神山的方式就是绕着山念经,又称为“转山”。神山是绝对不能攀越的,想登上神山,就是对她的不敬。

 

无权阻止登山队攀爬神山的老百姓只能每天念经,祈求神山显灵,千万不能让这群人成功爬上去。另一方面,登山队的进展相当顺利,就当他们距离主峰只有200米的时候,山上的天气突然便得恶劣,天突然降下大学,接着发生的雪崩造成17名队员一一罹难,成为登山史上的重大悲剧之一。对藏民而言,卡瓦格博听到了他们的诉求,他显灵了。

 

1996年,中日双方又在组织登山队企图完成遇难登山队员的遗愿。但气候的突然转变最终还是干预了他们的行程,让他们无法如愿以偿。这之后,中国就禁止人们再攀登这座神圣的雪山。

 

Our real test begins after watching the glorious sunrise.

 

Trekking to Yubeng is next on the agenda. Yubeng is a Tibetan village at the foot of the sacred Meili Snow Mountain. Yubeng is actually made up of the upper and lower villages, with not more than 35 families in total. In Tibetan, the words “yubeng” sounds similar to how they call the holy scriptures, and it is said that the village used to be the place where holy scriptures were kept.

 

To the Tibetans, it is known as the Kagebo Mountain and is a place where they pay pilgrimage. This is akin to the mecca site of the Tibetans and pilgrims often trek around the mountain chanting prayers. Kagebo is made up of 13 peaks and the main peak stands at 6740m above sea level, but no one has ever succeded in scaling the highest peak.

 

In 1991, a mountain climbing team consisting of Japanese and Chinese attempted to scale the mountain. When they arrived at Yubeng, the villagers, who are not used to seeing outsiders, were fascinated by these strangers and treated them warmly. However, once they got wind that these people planned to scale their holy mountain, they were angry and panicky. They did not want the climbers to taint their scared mountain by scaling it, yet they did not have any means to stop them.

 

Hence, they started praying. They prayed to Kagebo that not a single person would be able to make it up the mountain. They prayed and prayed.

 

The progress of the climbing team appeared good initially. It was only when they were about 200m shy of the peak that an unexpected sudden snow storm took place. The snow storm eventually caused an avalanche, burying all 17 team members, making it one of the worst climbing disasters in history.

 

1996, hoping to finish the momentous task of their fellow team mates, another climbing team was set up to scale the peak again. But bad weather similarly forced the team to give up their goal. Thereafter, the Chinese government has ordered that the mountain never be scaled again.

 

雨崩村车辆不能通行,因此进村的人只能徒步。而且要到雨崩真的得“翻山越岭”,得徒步18公里,翻过海拔3700米的那宗丫口,才能抵达目的地。开始徒步的山脚下有个马场,虽称马场但都是骡子,我们开始还坚持要自己徒步,结果18公里有三分之二是上坡路,况且又是高原地带,走得我们气喘如牛,大腿快撑不住了。结果半途“投降”,拜托导游打电话给马夫叫骡子。

 

Yubeng village is not accessible by car, and the only way in and out is to trek. The route to Yubeng is simply torturous. Out of the 18km trek to the village, about two third of it is upslope, and one has to climb over a 3700m high mountain to reach the village. About one third through the upslope, we “surrendered” and rode donkey the rest of the way.

 

 

DSC_0086

我骑的骡子 / my donkey

 

 

 

DSC_0105

上山 / upslope

 

 

 

DSC_0160

看到雨崩了 / first glimpse of the village

 

 

 

DSC_0166

上村 / upper village

 

 

 

DSC_0171

运货的骡子 / goods have to be transported in by these donkeys

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

 

在香格里拉的酒店住了一晚,好冷啊!房间没有暖炉,只好卷曲着身体,裹在棉被里,夜里都不敢动,因为一碰到冰冷的床单就会发抖。=P

 

早上起床拉上牛仔裤也好痛苦,“冻”了一夜的裤子和温暖的肉体接触那一刹那,真要命。还有,用冰冰的水刷牙,那阵刺痛连“sensodyne”牙膏都没法避免吧..

 

今天早上我们首先抵达藏传佛教寺院松赞林寺它也是俗称的“小布达拉宫”。松赞林寺目前有部分建筑正在进行维修,但游客仍络绎不绝。

 

Spent a cold night in the hotel room in Shangri-la. There’s no heater in the room and temperature at night must have dropped to single digit. With only a quilt over my body, I curled into foetal position and hardly turned at all to avoid contact with the rest of the cold bedsheet which had not been warmed by my own body heat.

 

It’s also a nightmare to pull on my jeans in the morning! On hindsight, perhaps I should have let my jeans “slept” under the quilt so that it’ll be more bearable when I have to put them on again.. Ah well, another lesson to bear in mind. Another frightening thing about the cold is when the tap is first turned on in the morning and you only have cold water to brush and wash up. (Hot water is usually only available at certain hours) I don’t think sensodyne will help lessen the sharp throb shot right through from the mouth to the brain. Come to think of it, it’s a feeling similar to brain freeze.

 

Our first stop of the morning was a Tibetan temple in Shangri-la–  Songzanlin Monastry. It’s also known as the “Little Potala Palace” due to its striking resemblance in architecture to the famous Potala Palace in Tibet. 

 

 

 

DSC_0799

“小布达拉宫”松赞林寺 / Little Potala Palace in Shangri-la

 

 

 

DSC_0800

入口 / Entrance

 

 

 

DSC_0802

喜欢没有树叶的树 / bare trees are my favourite

 

 

 

DSC_0814

建筑色彩特别鲜艳 / rich colours adorn the temple buildings

 

 

 

DSC_0820

早晨的薄雾 / unobstructed view from the temple premise

 

 

 

紧接着来到纳帕海/依拉草原。这个景点相当有趣,雨季水分充足,大部分草原被湖水覆盖,就称为“纳帕海”。若是遇到较干旱的季节,湖水蒸发了,就变成“依拉草原”。我们看到的是海,还有一点点草原

 

Next on the intinerary is Napa Lake/ Yila Grassland. This is a “2-in-1” combination. During the wet season, water will fill the grassland, turning it into a lake. Conversely when the dry season arrives, water from the lake will evaporate, transforming it into a grassland once more. We saw the lake and a bit of the grassland.

 

 

 

DSC_0844

清澈的湖水,朦胧的雾 / can you spot the grass patches beneath the water?

 

 

 

午餐后来到金沙江月亮湾。说真的,之前在明信片上看到月亮湾,并没有什么感觉。亲眼目睹它,还是没什么感觉。就是顺道的其中一个景点。

 

Arrived at Jinsha River Moon Bay after lunch, a tributary of the Yangtze River. Seen it on a postcard just before the trip, wasn’t too impressed. 

 

 

 

DSC_0861

月亮湾 / Moon Bay

 

 

 

然后又坐车前进,朝白马雪山丫口去。

 

And we set off again, towards White Horse Snow Mountain.

 

 

 

DSC_0869

空气越来越稀薄,快吸氧!/ time for more oxygen!

 

 

 

DSC_0877

这就是传说中的4292 / the legendary 4292m

 

 

 

DSC_0907

梅里十三塔,经方中见雪山 / the site of Meili Thirteen Pagodas

 

 

 

DSC_0928

往飞来寺途中月亮升上来了 / captured on the way to Feilaisi

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

一大早在丽江古城门口的大水车集合,展开了6日北上的旅程。

 

主要的景点时徒步中虎跳峡,上下峡谷可不是闹着玩的,我们的体力都快耗尽了,而今天只是第一天!

 

 

DSC_0738

为了确保游客安全,一些地方还竖起铁链让人扶着

 

 

 

DSC_0740

高难度

 

 

 

DSC_0744

我们要到峡里!

 

 

 

DSC_0750

终于到了!要过那道桥,还得付5元!什么道理……

 

 

 

DSC_0760

这里的水真猛

 

 

 

DSC_0782

回程——快到了~

 

 

 

DSC_0791

小中甸草原,午后的太阳把我们的身影拉长

 

 

Read Full Post »

Day 7: 束河古镇

为了明天的旅程,今天我们决定放轻松!在束河古镇里闲逛,到咖啡厅坐着看书、发呆……

 

 

DSC_0640

玉龙雪山

 

 

 

DSC_0643

刚出生几天的小狗和小男孩

 

 

 

DSC_0650

不知道穿着开裆裤的小男孩是否对这近距离的接触感到不自在?=P

 

 

 

DSC_0670

老人和小孩

 

 

 

DSC_0679

不知道是什么花

 

 

 

DSC_0712

在田里耕耘

 

 

Read Full Post »

前一晚从大理搭车到丽江,抵达时已是晚上9点多。我们在人群中穿梭,找到老谢车马店。很遗憾这是我们住的最糟的旅舍。房间凌乱,同房的中国房客性情古怪,清晨又有人大声说话,把我们吵醒。还好只是一个晚上,隔天一大早我们就匆匆退房。

 

丽江古城确实是很多游客聚集的地方。不论早上晚上,在街上、商店的人群总是络绎不绝。还有,不少情侣也喜欢到古城里拍婚纱照,城内也有不少摄影店专门为人们在古城里拍摄个人写真集。

 

 

 
 

DSC_0546

摩登新娘在古城里摆pose

 

 

 

 

DSC_0549

saxaphonist

 

 

 

DSC_0552

往下看,古城就是这个样子

 

 

 

DSC_0563

两只猫咖啡馆,我们发呆、看书、喝咖啡的地方

 

 

这天的行程相当轻松,就是到处寻找便宜的6日到香格里拉、梅里雪山和雨崩的配套。多数旅行社都把配套价位定在1200人民币左右,后来在两只猫咖啡馆附近的旅行社问到最便宜的价格——每人900元,于是便订下配套。(那时还不知道也订了6日的苦行)……

 

哦,说起丽江古城,不能不说到厕所。到过中国旅游的人都知道在这里上厕所向来是件让人闻之丧胆的事,尤其是走出大城市,进入乡间,比如巴士中途停靠的休息站,厕所总是臭味熏天。更让女生困扰的是,排便、排尿的地方往往是一条小沟渠,间中只有小墙把隔间分开,门是根本不存在的。所以,在古城里上厕所可说是极为幸福的事,因为这里的厕所都是“五星级”的!隔间里还有小电视,让人解闷。

 

 

DSC_0575

自己拿钱买冰棒的三岁小女孩

 

 

 

DSC_0580

女孩的母亲来自福建,在古城里卖起披巾

 

 

 

DSC_0583

后来才知道我们签下的就是这家“驴行天下”的旅游配套

 

 

逛了一早上的古城,我们动身前往束河古镇。它是昔日茶马古道重镇,旅游业却比丽江晚开发,因此人不必丽江多,感觉舒服很多。我们在旅马客栈住下,马上认识同样下榻在那儿的杭州女孩,她还主动带我们上山到藏族佛教寺庙——古莲寺。

 

 

DSC_0594

风一吹,就把经文念上一遍,传到天上

 

 

 

DSC_0595

束河古镇风貌

 

 

 

DSC_0611

古镇外街景

 

 

 

DSC_0621

玉龙雪山流下的水,冰冰凉凉的,是天然的冰箱

 

 

 

DSC_0635

又一户人家在晒干玉米当饲料

 

 

 

DSC_0639

福建菜——糖醋鱼和萝卜排骨汤,我们吃得最好的一顿

 

 

Read Full Post »

别被标题吓坏了,虽然一天赶三“场”,但它们都很靠近。

 

沙平赶集是白族市集,每周一举行。那天艳阳高照,我们搭了约半小时的车从古城到市集,有些摊贩还在摆摊,决定先填饱肚子。市集什么都卖,肉菜书衣服……甚至还有当地特色的soft porn,而且片名都蛮搞笑的……嘿嘿

 

 

DSC_0408

下车后过马路到市集

 

 

 

DSC_0422

市集就在山脚下

 

 

 

DSC_0434

阿姨给我们准备早点

 

 

 

DSC_0435

加了醋,好吃!

 

 

 

DSC_0442

我们都有点不敢穿过去

 

 

 

DSC_0444

书也能这样卖

 

 

 

DSC_0448

可怜的鸡都难逃厄运

 

 

 

市集不大,我们大概逛了两小时后,就搭车到周城。一抵达就有两名白族的妇女跟着我们,要我们到她们家去看扎染布。这一带以扎染闻名,商店里都能看到扎染布,街上的老奶奶们也在为扎染过的布拆线。

 

我们沿着上坡的路,误打误撞就来到一个寺庙。刚好当天是九月初九,由也是当地的“敬老节”,寺庙正在举行庆典,里头还有许多穿着传统服饰的妇女。

 

 

 

DSC_0452

周城街景

 

 

 

DSC_0458

她们都好爱照相

 

 

 

DSC_0464

周城里的寺庙

 

 

 

DSC_0481

奶奶们膝上的就是扎染布

 

 

 

DSC_0495

可爱的奶奶 =)

 

 

 

DSC_0517

大叔帮忙写地址

 

 

DSC_0524

抱得好紧!

 

 

 

然后到了喜州,参观了白族的传统房舍,观赏了表演。过后在这家躲在巷子里的街头摊位买了双绣花鞋给侄女。

 

 

 

DSC_0541

小摊子

 

 

 

DSC_0540

五颜六色的鞋子好吸引人!

 

 

Read Full Post »

Older Posts »